Ama Dablam and Putha Hiunchuli: summit bids and acclimatisation rounds 8am

There’s action, activity and fun being had on all of our expeditions at the moment. In the Khumbhu, Diane Westaway and Marty Beare should be on their summit bid on Ama Dablam right now. After several weeks of unseasonably cold weather in the Khumbu, the weather has warmed slightly to offer the team a more pleasant summit window.

We’ll know in a few hours their progress on our favourite Khumbu mountain. Matt Eaton and Nima Sherpa is climbing up and sleeping at Camp 2 today with Lakpa. They are on their final acclimatisation round before beginning their summit climb in the middle of next week. Unfortunately last minute work stress and most likely an underlying respiratory infection, led to Matt Farr leaving the same expedition due to altitude sickness.

Matt is already back in Kathmandu and he’s already booked himself into the next Amadablam fall trip with Himalayan Ascent. Ama Dablam is not a mountain one wants to let go of too easily. Jonathan Arendt and Stephen had to turn back just below the summit of Nirekha due to soft snow conditions. However, the boys are currently enjoying Ama Dablam base camp after succeeding 2 Khumbu favourites this season. Marie Helene is also back in Kathmandu and is still glowing from her successful trip with summits of Ama Dablam and Lobuche East.

Off in remote Dolpa and at the base of Putha Hiunchuli, Erick Edstrom and Leif Rehnberg are resting today after climbing up to Camp 1 yesterday. The plan tomorrow is to climb to Camp 2 and sleep at Camp 1 with Angkaji. They are the only expedition on the mountain at the moment, so they are enjoying the serene experience.

Ama Dablam, Putha Hiunchuli and Triple Peaks in full swing 10PM

Himalayan Ascent kicked off its autumn season a few weeks ago with multiple trips going multiple directions. In the Khumbu, Jangbu and Gaylgen, have recently successfully guided French couple, Marie Helene and Jean-Pierre Rougeron, on Lobuche East. Marie Helene is now on Ama Dablam aiming to summit on Oct 20. Australians Diane Westaway and Marty Beare have also topped out on Lobuche East and are resting up in Ama Dablam base camp. They too now have their sights in our favorite Khumbhu mountain, Ama Dablam.

Young Chirring (our ex Buddhist monk) is presently guiding the strong American duo of Jonathan Arendt and Stephen on Nirekha, after already successfully summitting Island Peak and Lobuche East. Meanwhile, Lakpa is trekking up with Brit Matt Farr and Australian Matt Eaton to Ama Dablam base camp. The trio will begin climbing Ama Dablam in the next few days.

Out in the Annapurna region, we’ve had a few groups pass through the Gandruk/Poon hill circuit to enjoy Gurung/Magar culture and stunning views of the Annapurna range including Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri and Machapuchre. Australian Daren Bracewell is about halfway through his trek to Annapurna base camp with our trekking guide Deepak. Further west and into remote Dolpo, Angkaji and Rabin are guiding Sweds, Erick Edstrom and Leif Christer Rehnberg, to climb Putha Hiunchuli (7246m).

After finally arriving in Kathmandu but missing a bag and after missing a flight, the pair were thrilled to actually land in Dolpo without experiencing further delays or loosing bags between Kathmandu-Nepalgunj-Juphal! They are currently on day 2 of the trek into Putha Hiunchuli base camp with good weather! Next week Sumit begins leading a group through a full circuit of the Khumbu (Very Best of Everest) including a summit of Lobuche East, Cho La pass, Gokyo lakes and Renjo La pass. You can never have too much fun in the mountains in Nepal!

Manaslu Avalanche Report 3pm

The Himalayan Ascent team arrived safely back in Kathmandu on September 27th via helicopter from Samagoan. You can read details about the avalanche that occurred on Manaslu September 23rd 2012 on many expedition websites and climber blogs. This is just a summary from the Himalayan Ascent perspective about the events surrounding the avalanche.

Climbing Manaslu carries considerable avalanche risk, it’s a factor known by all who climb it. The days leading up to the avalanche, the mountain and base camp endured a storm that dropped metres of fresh snow including on its avalanche prone slopes. Wary of this, many teams were slow to restart rotation or summit bids after the storm passed. Eventually by September 21st most expeditions were back on the mountain but were ever watchful of the conditions. Unfortunately, no one anticipated that it would be seracs from 7400m ~4.15am to be the trigger for a colossal avalanche that swept down and over Camp 3 (6800m). The 31 people at Camp 3 were caught sleeping in their tents.

The 30-35 tents and some 100-150 people at Camp 2 (6400m) were saved by 3 large crevasses that consumed most of the avalanche debris above the campsite. Wind and snow piling over tents woke up most people at Camp 2. Angkaji and Anders’ tent was pushed about 1m forward, whilst Lakpa and Chris did well to keep their tent from collapsing. Once it became clear that the avalanche had directly hit Camp 3, Lakpa and Angkaji left to assist in rescue at 4.30am joining guides from other expeditions. What they found was the remains of Camp 3 pushed off its ledge to some 300m below, with tents, gear, bodies and survivors scattered haphazardly along the slope. Lakpa stayed at Camp 3 supporting helicopter rescue and body recovery. He worked with others to search and pull out bodies. Angkaji returned to Camp 2 to guide Chris and Anders back to the safety of base camp, where Sumit and the cook team welcomed them with relief. From base camp, Sumit assisted where he could working with the main rescue operation based at Himalayan Experience. Along with other guides, he listened into different radio frequencies to ascertain and monitor the rescue above. Once all the injured were airlifted for medical attention and when weather prevented further transfer of bodies, Lakpa returned to base camp to join the team. Later that afternoon, a meeting was held to confirm the numbers missing or dead, by accounting team numbers from every expedition. They also decided to send a team of international and national guides on helicopter surveillance the next day to scout for those missing. Lakpa joined the team. On September 24th from an aerial view, Lakpa observed the extent of the avalanche and examined the seracs that could potentially trigger further avalanches. Unfortunately they did not spot the 3 missing climbers. During a meeting of all expedition leaders, Sherpas and clients held later that afternoon, he and his fellow guides from helicopter surveillance reported the significant dangers still present on the mountain. Sumit mediated the meeting expressing the feelings and thoughts of the Sherpas to clients and Western leaders. Most Sherpas were unwilling to climb further, whilst Western leaders and clients had mixed feelings about continuing or departing. After seeing first hand the precarious state of seracs sitting along the summit route, Lakpa expressed that it was too dangerous for Himalayan Ascent to continue. Angkaji, now on his 7th Manaslu expedition, was not comfortable with the current climbing conditions, so it was decided that Himalayan Ascent would terminate the expedition.

The team packed up on September 25th and returned to Samagoan on September 26th. You can read a further detailed personal account of the avalanche from our expedition member, Chris Burke http://www.chrisjensenburke.com/?p=1282. The events of September 23rd on Manaslu have not dampened the team’s climbing spirit. They feel renewed with life knowing how close they came to danger that day, but appreciate what a privilege it is for a mountain to allow safe passage. Chris and Lakpa are presently heading to Lobuche East, an old friend of Himalayan Ascent, and Anders has returned to family and friends in Sweden.

Heading to Manaslu 5pm

The Himalayan Ascent Manaslu Expedition 2012 is about to kick off. Support staff are already on the trail to base camp, and climbers, Chris Burke and Anders Bergval, and guides, Lakpa and Sumit, leave tomorrow.

The team will trek in from 530m in a semi tropical climate, they’ll pass through several climates before reaching an alpine environment at base camp (4800m). This will be a true climb of 8000m to reach the summit of Manaslu by the end of September.

Today the team received blessings from a prominant Lama. Tomorrow they have a challenging all day jeep/truck journey to bring them to the trail head.

Ama Dablam Update! (Ueli Steck to fix rest of the route)

Lakpa just called to update us from Camp 2…after an epic day yesterday, they were unable to make it to the summit. They got as far as the serac above Camp 3 (~6400m) around 2pm, but “safety first” prevented them from going further given the late hour in the day. Everyone safely retreated back to Camp 2 to rest.

Unfortunately their progress was hampered by the challenges of increased snow, pushing from Camp 2 and being the first to open the route this year. It’s still not possible to sleep at Camp 3 because of high avalanche risk, so the plan is still to go Camp 2 to the summit (another epic!).

Everyone is now resting at Camp 2 today for much needed rest for another summit attempt tomorrow. Lakpa is however dropping to base camp. Not surprisingly, the demands of being the chief line fixer and route setter has left him a tad exhausted. Even Sherpas get tired! He’ll return up to Camp 2 tomorrow when the rest make another summit bid to restock camp as supplies are getting a bit low. He’s passing leading duties to mountaineering superstar Ueli Steck! Ueli is in the area to climb Everest, and Ama Dablam is a warm up/acclimitisation exercise for him. Lakpa has stashed 500m of rope at his last high point for Ueli to pick up where Lakpa left off.

It’s turning out to be an interesting and challenging spring expedition for our team….good luck to them and more updates to come….Sumit

Ama Dablam News

Ama Dablam is generally popular to climb in the October season, but this year Himalayan Ascent has a team on the mountain in spring. One of advantages of spring is less traffic, and that’s certainly the case now with only us, a Russian party and an independent British pair.

The team consists of Chris Possa (Switzerland, previous member of Lobuche team), Scott Macintosh (USA) and Niels (USA). Leading is Lakpa Sherpa with support from Niels who is a Yosemites’ guide. It’s a seriously technical mountain and despite its dwarf 6812m height compared to local giants, Everest and Lhotse, it’s not a mountain to be sniggered at. However, the group is in good hands with Lakpa. If successful, it will be Lakpa’s 19th summit in 8 years! He knows the mountain like the back of his hand.

Despite a little bit heavier snow on the ridge compare to other years, progress is good going. They have made a couple of trips up the mountain and have opened the route between camp 1 and camp 2. The team is also the first this season to spend a night at the infamous rocky camp #2. Now they are all having a well-deserved rest day at base camp before the summit push. If all goes as planned, the group is eyeing to summit around the 26th with Lakpa fixing lines above camp 3 as he pushes with the group for the summit. Everyone is well and enjoying base camp before the summit push.

Meanwhile, stay tuned for more updates…also Himalayan Ascent want to do something “special” for Lakpa’s 20th on Ama Dablam in October 2012 so be looking for that….Sumit

“don’t worry there are plenty of spoons” & other famous quotes”

Day 1 – At the lunch stop between Lukla to Monjo.Someone locks Erika in the teahouse toilet (doors in the Khumbu can be locked from the outside to stop them slamming in the wind).Will comments: ‘There’s something fundamentally wrong about the way that people have the power to lock you in the toilet!In the U.S. this just wouldn’t be possible.’ On day 5, Will awakes in the night to find that the door to his lodge room has been locked from the outside and he cannot get out to use the bathroom.Will reminisces on the experience the following morning: ‘I thought it might be some sort of unusual hotel policy to lock people in their rooms during the night’.

Day 5 – Sumit warns the group not to bother with the Pangboche bakery & tells us not to visit the Pangboche monastery as the group will be visiting the monastery the next morning.Will, Chris & Pete then head straight for the bakery & then after some food, they go & check out the monastery.On Day 13, the group visit the bakery in Pangboche again.Will develops stomach pains from a piece of layer cake of questionable vintage.

Day 6 – Standing in the Pangboche monastary (in 6 day old socks), Pete realises that his socks smell so bad that he cannot smell the incense that the Lama is burning.

Day 6 – Pete & Chris have cultured a pungent odour in their room at Pangboche. On the way out of Pangboche, Pete realises a missed opportunity ‘Chris! We forgot to get Anna to smell our room’.

Day 7 – Anna, Sabita, Erika & Pete wash their clothes at the Dingboche teahouse and hang them outside. During the acclimatization walk, it starts to snow. Pete says ‘I wonder if my clothes will dry in the snow’. The four return from the acclimatisation walk to find that their clothes have been rescued by the teahouse owner. It is still snowing & so they decide to finish drying by draping them over the windowsills in the public dining room. Pete turns his underpants over so that the crotch is not facing up: ‘maybe this will be more socially acceptable to the other guests’. Later Anna hangs her undies from the window latch (possibly the least conspicuous of locations) A reassured Pete thinks to says: ‘It must be socially acceptable!…. at least to Europeans’.

Pretty much every day – Pete (who never pays proper attention to the dinner menu) is looking at Erika’s dinner: ‘Ah good choice’. And then he looks at Will’s dinner: ‘Another good choice’.

Day 14 – Sabita looks at the 9 breakfast orders that have been filled out and asks ‘has everyone ordered already?!’. Chris points out ‘no… only three of us have ordered…. but we’ve ordered more than one breakfast each’. Evidently, high altitude has had no impact on appetite for these trekkers.

Day 1 through to Day 11 – Pete quizzes Will & Chris on their experience with facial hair: ‘When will my beard stop itching?’

Day 3 – ‘I’ve always wanted a photo with an attractive Swedish woman. It’s one of those things on my life’s ‘to do’ list.’ – Anonymous

Day 4 – Mario says: ‘Pete, would you like me to take your photo? And would you like an attractive Swedish woman in the photo?’

Day 4 – Will is grasping the concept of the game of Spoons: ‘So basically this is a game where the looser is the one who does not pay attention to a pile of spoons.’

Day 3 – Chris (who spent the last 8 months travelling in India) is explaining his first impressions of India: ‘I see all of the men holding hands and I think.. Wow… there are a lot of gay men here in India… and then I realise that it is normal for the men to hold hands.’

Day 3 – Chris wakes up and looks in the mirror: ‘Holy F%$k I look like Sh*t ‘

Day 2 – Anna is talking to a ‘dirty looking’ Australian trekker with dreadlocks (who is coincidentally from the central coast). ‘Are you on your way back to Lukla? You look like you’ve been trekking for many days?’ The trekker is shocked: ‘Why do you say that? I’m on my way up’. Anna tries to dig up: ‘Oh it is because your face looks sunburnt’. Trekker, ‘really am I that badly burnt?’. Anna, ‘oh yes yes, I can see you are’.

Day 4 – In the morning, Will walks into the tea house dining room sporting his new outdoor wear (including a blue quick dry top & a set of new trekking poles). Sumit wolf whistles.

Day 3 – Listening to Sherpa music in the Namche tea house. There is extremely heavy emphasis on the tamborine in this music.

Day 5 – Rock climbing on the way up to Pangboche, Pete is 50% of the way up the climb and he finally sees the crack/hold that everyone is pointing out: ‘I can see the crack!!…. But I’ve run out of energy.’ Pete falls off the wall. Sabita (who’s got Sumit on belay) laughs too much and nearly pulls Sumit off the wall. Sumit is not impressed.

Day 17 + 1 – Will is talking about how he sat down in Pilgrims cafe with the intention of using the free WiFi but without buying a coffee. He is wondering why the waiters did not ask for his order: ‘I couldn’t figure out if this meant that the service at Pilgrims was really good…. or if it meant that the service was really bad’.

Day 9 – Pete’s bag was not as full as Anna’s bag & so Anna keeps a few things with Pete’s stuff. At 7:30PM, Mario & Pete are asleep in their Gorak Shep room. Anna bursts through the door: “Excuse me!! I need my sleeping bag please!!”

Day 10 – The “Possa Pass” allowing guests at the Lobuche Peak XV lodge to traverse quickly from the upstairs hallway, through the window & into the sunroom.

Day 1 – Sumit speculates on why Pete brought a wad of writing paper up the mountains: “What are you going do with that?? Draw the mountains??”

Day 12 – Anna is left handed. On Lobuche, Dendi keeps on setting up her abseil on the right-hand side. After Summit day, Anna has a really sore right arm.

Day 17 – Will does not quite make it to the teahouse in Lukla. Sumit sends the porters to look for him in all of the coffee shops. A slightly inebriated Will turns up for dinner after he stopped to use the bathroom in Waves bar.

Lobuche East and EBC – Will’s Post

I am told that grass will bloom here, and that the Sherpas will take their animals up the hills for summer pasture. But in early April, above 4500m, the landscape of the Khumbu is as barren as the surface of the moon. The snow-capped mountains are no longer around you but right beside you. No photograph or IMAX movie can simulate the experience of standing at the foot of Tawache or Pumo Ri.

From Kala Patthar I had an excellent view of Everest. It was important to me to see Everest, that’s the part people will inevitably ask me about, but I think it is misguided to view two weeks in the Khumbu as an expedition to any particular place. There are hundreds of mountains here. Each has its own shape, each is a distinct pattern of light and dark. As snow falls and melts, as the sun and clouds pass, even the same mountain can be transformed in the course of a day. There are blue-streaked ice floes and jagged black rocks. There is a sky a deeper blue than anything I’ve seen.

EBC Lobuche East

The 2012 Himalayan Ascent Lobouche East team have just arrived into Namche after a good hike from Monjo. Everyone is feeling good and we arrived in good time. The team this year consists of a good mix of personalities and experiences in Anna Eriksson (Sweden), Peter Lark (Australia), Erika Martinez (Australia), Mario Martinez (Australia), William Pastor (USA) and Christopher Possa (Switzerland). Our guides this time are Lakpa Sherpa, Sumit Joshi, Dendi Sherpa and Lakpa Sherpa jnr. Still to arrive are Lexi Tuddenham (USA) and Pasang Chutti Sherpa who are joining us later in Lobouche, whilst the rest of the group head to Everest base camp first.

Tomorrow is an acclimatization day so we’re walking up to the Everest View Hotel to give Chris his first peep at Ama Dablam. Then we’re rock climbing in a newly developed crag near Syanboche airport. After Lobouche, Lakpa Sherpa is leading Chris on an expedition on the mountain with another 2 Americans, a Japanese and a Singaporean. Also post Lobouche, Anna will also attempt a double summit on Island Peak, while Dendi and Pasang Chutti will head to Everest. If successful it will be Dendi’s 6th summit on Everest. For Pasang Chutti, a Khumbu local from Monjo, it will be her first thanks to the kind generosity of Christine Burke for making this dream happen for her.

Fortunately, we missed the storm that passed through Namche last night. It’s left us clear views of the surrounding mountains, including a stunning first glimpse of Everest on the walk up. We can’t ask for much more as we sit here now enjoying a coffee and chocolate rich brownie…..Sabita

Nirekha and Kyajo Ri Summits

Hello again,
Well a bit of time has passed since the last update, and I am pleased to report that summits of both Nirekha and Kyaji Ri were reached! Last Friday Matt successfully reached the summit of Nirekha, accompanied by Ang, Passang, Lakpa, Passang Chutin and trip Leader Pat Hollingworth. Troy gave it a crack but didn’t have enough energy on the day, and Meri and Caroline were both a bit crook and unable to leave the tents. The other guys were healthy enough but decided the warmth of the sleeping bag was preferable to a cold and hard fought summit. The views of Everest and Cho Oyu from the top were spectacular, and the route made for interesting climbing. It’s a bit steeper and more direct than Lobuche East, and why it isn’t climbed more regularly is beyond me – it is a really nice climb!

After summitting we returned to high camp and caught up with the rest of the team on the other side of the Cho La Col. After some discussions Jamie, Mel, Troy and Kerrie opted to trek over the Renjo La instead of attempting Kyajo Ri, while Meri and Caroline, both still dealing with health issues, wisely decided to descend to the warmth and thicker air of Namche. This left Matt to tackle Kyajo Ri with Ang, and I’m pleased to report that they summitted on the 5th December after a very quick push from base camp. Awesome work guys!

Today sees the remaining crew flying from Lukla to Kathmandu and then onwards to Australia over the next few days, and thus concludes Himalayan Ascent’s Triple Peaks Expedition. So until next time…

Over and out

Pat