Well we’re all set to go, our Sherpas have finished stocking the South Col and are now taking a rest at EBC. We’re aiming for a date soon after the 19th as the next good weather window for the summit. Everest was summited first this season by the Sherpa line fixers on the 11th, and there have already been a few summits after them. Next week we should be up there if all goes to plan. Everyone is well and healthy at EBC. We’ll update you on the summit push.
After spending 2 nights in C3 on Annapurna, strong winds have yet again delayed summit aspirations for Lakpa and his team. They are safely back in BC waiting for another summit opportunity. Over at Everest BC, we held our main pujaon the 14th with all climbers and gear. Our Sherpas are busy now stocking C1 and C2, while our other climbers are practicing ladder crossings in preparation for their first foraythrough the icefall on the 20th.
Lakpa and the Annapurna team are currently healthy but are stuck at EBC due to bad weather.They are sitting tight waiting for the weather to be kind for their summit push. Our Everest teams start to arrive at BC today after enjoying lovely trekking weather heading up. The camp is all set up thanks to the hard work of Rabin and our climbing Sherpas.
After days of uncertainty and unrest at Everest base camp, the Himalayan Ascent team can finally officially announcement that they're going home. Our guides had already decided to quit the expedition following the loss of our friends and teammates last Friday, but due to the growing movement to demand more protection and rights from the government, we waited it out to support our fellow guides.
With heavy hearts, today we farewell our friend and brother, Ankaji Sherpa. Today his spirits will soar to heights above Everest to a new world I know that will welcome him with love. See you in our next life brother.
Ankaji Sherpa (1978-2014) Loving father of six and Himalayan Ascent Senior Guide When Ankaji participated in the rescue operation for the 2012 Manaslu avalanche, I recall how torn up he was emotionally when he saw the avalanche debris. As I write this, I can't believe this has also become his fate during his 8th Everest expedition and 14th year of guiding. It was Ankaji's decision this year to take the responsibility of head guide rather than client personal guide, even though the position is less lucrative and holds no personal glory. With five Everest summits already under his belt, Ankaji wasn't a guy ever interested in personal glory. He always prioritised safety, particularly client's safety, and the team before his own personal ambitions. Ankaji was on what was meant to be a routine rotation to set up Camp 1 and 2 when the avalanche struck and took him from us. In fact, Ankaji was just being Ankaji at the time of the accident as he accompanied his brother-in-law slowly through the icefall instead of thinking of his own safety.
Himalayan Ascent have never had to make a post like this before, so we are lost for words how to express this:
We regret to confirm that during yesterday's avalanche between Everest base camp and Camp 1, we lost 3 of our guides and support staff. They included our senior guide, Ankaji Sherpa, Tenzing Sherpa (Camp 2 kitchen assistant and Ankaji's brother-in-law) and Asman Gurung (personal guide of Edwin, USA).