Makalu Expedition indeed is a rare one; one of the less climbing expeditions undertaken, as compared to other Himalayan Expeditions in Nepal. The tough technical demands and additional challenges and difficulties on the summit pyramid make Makalu Expedition to be most tricky and tough. Nevertheless, like most of the things that are challenging and risky are the very things most coveted by humans, Makalu Expedition is one of the most alluring and thrilling climbing expeditions of all.
Makalu Mountain or “Big Black” is situated just 19km South East from Everest in the Makalu-Barun National Park bordering Tibet. This 5th highest mountain in the world was first climbed in 1955. The Makalu-Barun National Park is a remote wilderness with few comfort services available as compared to neighboring Sagarmatha National Park. Hence, such additional challenges, together with aforementioned ones, make Makalu Expedition a considerable undertaking amongst 8000m peaks.
The route begins with a flight into Tumlingtar (285m), a town at the base of the hills that climb into Makalu-Barun National park. We will then drive to our trailhead in Chichila. The journey from this point is a 9-day route on foot through villages and subtropical forests, descents ascents of the Arun valley, and hikes over a series of passes including Shipton La pass (4200m) to finally reach Makalu base camp. We will take a few days to rest and acclimatise at base camp before starting our rotation rounds on the mountain. Using the route of the first ascent, we will ascend via the North West ridge. From Makalu base camp, we will place 5 camps on the mountain beginning with an advanced base camp located just across the glacier moraine. The route between Camp 1 to Camp 3 climbs between seracs and crevasses with sections of steep mixed climbing. Camp 4 to the summit is a significant day that involves negotiating a steep ice band, crevasses, a 300m gully and an exposed summit ridge.
Given the gravity and difficulty of this expedition, you must have extensive climbing skills, a considerable level of experience in the Himalayas and excellent fitness to join this expedition. Preferably with experience of an 8000m expedition.
- Summit the 5th highest mountain in the world
- Challenging 8000m technical climb
- Varied and remote trek through the Makalu-Barun National Park
Day 2-3: In Kathmandu (Preparation)
Day 4: Fly to Tumlingtar, drive to Chichila
Day 5: Trek to Num
Day 6: Trek to Seduwa
Day 7:Trek to Tashi Gaon
Day 8-9: Trek to Khongma and acclimatisation
Day 10:Trek to Mumbak via Shipton La pass
Day 11: Trek to Yangri Kharka
Day 12-13: Trek to Shershong and acclimatisation
Day 14:Trek to Makalu base camp
Day 15-16: Acclimatisation and puja in Makalu base camp
Day 17-19:Trek to Advanced base camp and acclimatisation
Day 20-44: Climb and summit Makalu
Day 45-46:Pack up camp
Day 47:Helicopter to Kathmandu
Day 48:In Kathmandu
Day 49: Depart Kathmandu