Small group trekking and expedition in Nepal

As the team are waiting for flights back to Kathmandu from Lukla, they've spent time reflecting back on their summit day. Margaret posts a more detailed account of the day below:

"I reached Hillary Step about 7.45am. I was having a drink and we had decided to proceed for at least an hour to go for the summit when the sky turned black. We had no visibility and we chose the sensible option to go down. The storm did not look like it was going to lift and we were not sure how strong the winds were going to be on the top or if the storm was going to get worse. I am proud of my achievement and at only 50 vertical meters from the summit, I know in my heart that had the weather window been longer or more typical I would have summited."

Margaret corrects that it was not the cold that made her turn so close to the summit. The unpredicted localised weather condition at the summit itself prevented Margaret from reaching the top. For Himalayan Ascent, Margaret's achievement is one of a summiteer.

Chris Burke has also posted part of her summit experience on her blog. http://www.chrisjensenburke.com/lhotse-and-everest-summits-part-1-of-2/

Whilst teams are building on the Western Cwn and on the South Col (~35 climbers have delayed summit bids due to strong winds and are waiting out another day for an attempt tonight, hopefully with plenty of oxygen!), we are glad to be back in Lukla and away from those crowds. We took the more exciting option of a helicopter to cut the journey from base camp to Lukla. Tonight we're in Lukla and weather being good, we'll be back in crazy Kathmandu tomorrow. We bid farewell to our Sherpa guides and support team to pack up base camp and camp 2. They still have a significant job to take stock, clean, pack, store gear, and move garbage before considering their journey home back to loved ones. We're looking forward to celebrating once we're safely back in Kathmandu!

The team arrived back at base camp at lunchtime. As they rest, eat, wash and think about packing, the crowds are starting to develop above. Groups are beginning to prepare for a summit push over the next few days. This includes about 120 climbers planning for a May 19th push for a May 20th summit!

Everyone is resting at Camp 2, except Chris who has already headed back to BC with Chirring. We certainly had a tough team this year. Margaret, Peter, Warren and Chris, all experienced climbers, impressed our guides throughout the rotations with their strong fitness, positive attitudes and good adaptability to high altitude. Here's a message that Steve (Margaret's husband) asked to be posted:

"Congratulations on everyone's success! I think that Himalayan Ascent could get used to this. Get some warm tea into you, and get down safely.

I send special love to my wife Margaret with whom I am enormously proud.

A significant part of mountaineering is knowing when to turn back, and acting on it. The mountains are littered with those that did not. There is enormous emotional pressure to continue when the summit is so apparently close, and at a time when the body and mind are exhausted. So much sacrifice and preparation seems to be at stake. It takes bold character to make the hard decisions in the face of such resistance. In fact, the sacrifice and preparation is there to return safely. The mountain will still be there in the morning.

I wish to pay my respects to the Sherpas who have passed away, and their families who now go without. The new mountain skills school cannot bring people back, but will assist in reducing accidents in the future.

Thanks to Sumit, Lakpa, Ankaji, Dendi, and the rest of the Himalayan Ascent team for turning dreams into reality. Thanks also to the amazing rope doctors, porters, and the generous villagers along the way.

Thanks to Chris Burke for recognizing Margaret's capability and potential. Thanks for encouraging her to join this trip.

Stephen St. Hill

13 May 2013"

Our teams had a successful morning. Young Chirring picked up where the fixing team left off on Lhotse and fixed the last 300m of the summit blocks, and summited at 10.30am this morning. Chris summited at 11.30am with Lakpa and Pasang. We're proud of Chirring for the first summit of the 4th highest mountain this season! Previously a monk and now a young guide, Chirring has the luck of his uncle Lakpa's climbing genes.

Great news on Everest too. The group set off at 9pm last night under calm and cold conditions. Peter summited at 6.30am with Nima and Mingma. Satisfied with their climbing success, Margaret and Warren gave the full summit a miss and turned around after the Hillary Step (8790m, ~5.50am) and after the South Summit (8770m, ~6.30am), respectively. A near summit indeed. Due to cloud cover, the sun was late arriving to warm up bodies. After climbing ~9hr in cold conditions, our Sydney friends were missing warm Sydney beaches. Peter on the other hand is Irish (enough said). Margaret and Warren still climbed higher than any other mountain (K2 is 8611m)! Awesome effort.

Both teams are heading back to Camp 4 to rest.